Dear visitors,
Day 1: September 13, 2007 Thursday
My daughter Brenda also wanted to visit Ireland, so she set the wheels in motion. She picked me up at home and we took a taxi to the airport. When we checked in, they told us that our flight out of Atlanta was delayed because of bad weather and that it was impossible to make the connection for the international flight out of JFK airport in New York.
Brenda checked other options; they had a flight out of Syracuse on Jet Blue that might make it. It had a 1 ½ hour time frame between arrival & departure. She booked us on that flight and all went well. We arrived in New York in plenty of time to make the connecting flight, but when we went to baggage pick-up— no luggage.
We waited a very long time. Finally, a few bags trickled down the ramp, then no more. We were told that they were going to get more. Again we waited.
Finally another passenger told us that they have our bags at another ramp. We retrieved our luggage & madly dashed through the airport to the international point, only to be told that our plane had just taken off.
We then took a taxi to a hotel, and waited a half hour for a room. We ordered pizza to be delivered. The room itself was beautiful and spacious and it even had two telephones, but we were too tired to enjoy it. We lost one day of our trip, and extra expenses.
What a day.
Trip to airport.
Taxi to hotel.
Hotel room.
Pizza in room.
Food at terminal.
Day 2: September 14, 2007 Friday
When our plane approached the runway & we were finally ready for takeoff, our pilot shut down the engine and announced that we were delayed because of severe storms in Atlanta. He said we were going to keep our place so that we would be ready when clearance for takeoff was given— in 2 hours.
Day 3: September 15, 2007 Saturday
We did make the plane and had a long, but pleasant flight. We ate dinner, read, watched a movie and traced our progress on the monitor. We always knew where we were and how much farther to the destination.
There was some turbulence, but it was a fine flight nevertheless.
Day 4: September 16, 2007 Sunday
1. Basement— storeroom or stable
2. Main guard— vaulted hall, minstrel’s gallery (an inside balcony used by musicians), main room, and common guard now used for banquets.
3. Captain’s quarters— for the captain of the guard.
4. Great hall— originally banquet hall & audience chamber of the Earl. Judgments were rendered here. The walls are exceedingly high and hung with ancient tapestries. Cupboards were hand-carved in 1570 and are beautiful. Standard or flag with 16th century coat-of-arms.
5. Earl’s kitchen— food prepared here, there are large turtle shells hung on the walls and used as bowls or lids.
6. Earl’s bedroom
7. North Solar— private apartment for the Earl’s family.
8. Private chapel
9. Earl’s pantry
10. Public chapel
11. Priest’s room
12. Robing room
13. Upper bedroom
14. South Solar— guest apartments
We took in every nook and cranny. It was an incredible climb, but worth every single minute. There are numerous castles throughout the country. Some are restored, but many are in ruins.
Today was special, because I felt like we finally arrived and our journey was beginning.
Day 5: September 17, 2007 Monday
Monday we drove south to Bruree where my family came from. This was the main point of my trip. I wanted to see where my grandmother, great-grandmother, Uncle Pat, and my mother’s cousin Eamon De Valera lived.
My mother’s aunt Catherine Coll came to America where she met and married Juan Vivion De Valera; a music teacher who was employed in the same building where Catherine worked as a domestic. Vivion De Valera took sick and died of consumption when their son Eamon was two years old. Catherine had a very rough time trying to work and care for her baby at the same time. The sitters were not very reliable.
When her brother Ed was returning to Ireland she sent her son to be with her mother and sister— my great-grandmother and grandmother still living in Ireland at that time. Circumstances over the years prevented her from getting him as he stayed and was raised there. Eamon attended Bruree National School in Bruree, County Limerick and also attended Charleville Christian Brother’s School in County Cork. He later went on to graduate in mathematics from the Royal University of Ireland. He taught mathematics as a professor in an Irish university and became Chancellor of National University of Ireland from 1922 until 1975.
Eamon met and married his lovely wife, Sinéad de Valera at one of his teaching positions.
He participated in the Easter Uprising of 1916. Irish patriots fought for freedom and independence from the United Kingdom of Great Britain and he was the last commander to lay down his arms. The other 13 commanders of the Uprising were executed, but Eamon was spared because of his American citizenship and birth. He was sentenced to life in a British prison, but he later escaped.
Later in life he entered politics and became Prime Minister of Ireland for several terms, he became head of the League of Nations for two terms. In his late years he was made President of Ireland. Because of his public role he met many heads of state, Popes, and other world leaders. He hosted John F. Kennedy, and later Lyndon B. Johnson and family when they came to Ireland. Eamon attended JFK’s funeral and walked behind the caisson. At that time he was almost completely blind.
So much for a little background.
Normally, going back after so many years, you wouldn’t get to see the old homestead unless descendants still lived there, but in this case, because he was famous, they restored his home where he was raised and turned it into a national monument. They also turned the school he attended into a national museum.
On our first visit to the museum the curator was not there, but the attendant in charge showed us around and showed us a film of Eamon’s life. We also saw personal effects and memorabilia of his life; birth certificate, pictures, math and report cards, the church he attended, and the house he lived in, and a replica of him as a school boy at a desk and another of him as a grown man in a study. It was moving.
A man was going to show us Eamon’s home, but as I was just starting my tour of the museum I didn’t want to cut it short and he couldn’t wait.
Later, Brenda and I spent some time in that area, but couldn’t find the house. We went back to the museum as I wanted more pamphlets. This time the curator was there. She was aware of my connection to De Valera from the attendant.
We spent quite a lot of time exchanging stories and information. We exchanged addresses. I promised to send her a copy of an article on Catherine Coll De Valera— Aunt Kate’s side of the story. The curator said she would enter it into the museum.
I had purchased a picture of the mill at Bruree and she insisted on giving us a gift. She gave me a clock with pictures of De Valera on it, and a mug for Brenda. The curator was able to secure the key to the homestead of De Valera and showed us the way. The back of the cottage, originally a farm, is now a park-like setting with trees. The house is small as it was a humble home.
We were able to go inside, see the two bedrooms on the second floor. I actually sat in an overstuffed chair that was used by all the family, and I also sat on a bench at the table they ate at. There were pictures on the walls and statues on the shelf above the hearth. I left really moved. I never had the love of a grandmother, as both of mine were dead before I was born.
I gathered some soil and rocks for my mother’s grave.
If I never saw much more of Ireland, I completed what was so important to me.
We thanked our gracious curator and left. What a perfect day. I couldn’t have done this without Brenda, as Bruree was not on any of the tours. We went back to the hotel and again we had dinner at a nearby restaurant.
Day 6: September 18, 2007 Tuesday
Trip to Blarney Castle
Day 7: September 19, 2007 Wednesday
We went back to the hotel and called it a wonderful day.
Day 8: September 20, 2007 Thursday
The Burren & Kerry City
I guess we must be getting used to the time difference and jet lag, because today we got up early enough to have breakfast at the hotel. It was buffet-style with a choice of juice, grapefruit or stewed prunes, cereal, bacon (which was more like ham), fried or scrambled eggs, two kinds of sausage shaped like little triangles that were seeded— very good, then there were beans, broiled tomatoes, a vast variety of bread, bagels, biscuits, and jams. The attendants were friendly and extremely courteous— they went from table to table to serve the guests and they went back to replenish anything you desired. We really enjoyed the meal and the experience.
Today we are going to visit the Burren; it is a place with a historic past. The Burren is a karst limestone region of 300 square kilometers (about 116 sq. miles). It is a very rocky, barren place eroded by water and riddled with underground caves and rivers which flood when it rains. Early inhabitants were more or less cavemen— very primitive people living in caves, dressed in animal skins. They hunted with spears and cooked over open fire. We saw replicas of funeral rites…etc.
Over the years the ocean wore away the land and it became more or less barren, covered with the most incredible species of flowers. In time the Burren will disappear completely.
Ireland has a history that includes beauty, hardship, poverty, famine, castles, quaint cottages, rural villages, great cathedrals and country churches. In recent years, thriving towns and businesses, tourists, and trade have boosted the economy and evolved the country into a prosperous nation with employment for everyone.
I’m not sure if this is the afternoon we went to Kerry or not, but one of the days we took in two sites. We drove to Kerry and rented a jaunting cart in the center of the city. The driver wrapped us in heavy blankets and a waterproof covering as it was misty outside. We toured the city and the driver took us to a national park with a castle donated by a wealthy American. It was over an hour’s ride and the scenery was breathtaking.
When we arrived at the castle we strolled around the grounds, came back and hugged our horse and chatted with the driver. He was a wealth of information and a perfect gentleman, as were all we chanced to meet on our travels. We had a beautiful ride back and we visited many shops...etc. then Brenda and I headed back to our hotel.
On the way we found what we thought was a fancy restaurant. In reality it was a very elegant sports club. We had a delicious drink, chatted with locals, and then we were ushered into a beautiful dining room. I had a chichen dish that was extremely good, but after salad and rolls I could not eat very much of it. Naturally —being me— I asked for a doggie bag. Don’t know if I was the first or not.
Anyway, it came back wrapped in heavy foil with a handle. Looked like an Easter basket. After that wonderful experience we headed back to the hotel for a very restful night.
Day 9: September 21, 2007 Friday
Can you believe that Brenda set out to find a Harley Davidson store and actually found one? She bought John a gift there. It is like looking for a needle in a haystack.
We arrived at one of the prisons that Eamon De Valera was taken to after the Easter Uprising of 1916. Even though he was spared the execution that the other 13 commanders suffered, he was subject to this very primitive, severe prison. Originally, the cells in this prison (at the time of famine), were about 6x9 feet. There was no heat, no lighting; there was only a peephole in the door of the cell. After the famine, people committed crimes to get sent there so they could get a meal.
Sometimes men, women, and children were all kept in the same cell designed for only one person. The guide told us that prisoners were given a 3” narrow candle that had to last them two weeks. The walls were made of porous rock, as the dampness and moisture always permeated the cells.
We saw another area that had a main yard with three stories of cells. It was there on the second landing that we saw De Valera’s cell. At this time, because of his great leadership and position, they had his name above it. Later, after becoming a math professor, head of the League of Nations, Prime Minister, and later President of Ireland, he came back and dedicated the restoration of the prison. He re-entered his old cell on this occasion.
We also saw the exercise yard where the prisoners were able to get some air and sunshine. They had to walk in shackles one behind another in silence, heads bent, and eyes on the heels of the man in front of them.
We also saw the area where the thirteen commanders of the Easter Uprising were shot. The flag of the Irish Free State was proudly displayed. The firing squad that killed the patriots never knew which shot killed the prisoner, because there was always one blank in each volley.
This is the time I most regretted not having my camcorder. I would have liked to have a recording of our guided tour and share it with my family. I would have liked more information and pamphlets, but they were limited.
We did see machines of torture, menus of meals served, personal effects of money, patriots killed, uniforms…etc.
This was our final day in Ireland. We really covered a tremendous amount of territory and sights in such a short amount of time, but we did it proud thanks to Brenda’s planning and research. She did an absolutely beautiful job.
When we left Dublin we proceeded back to Bunratty Castle. We saw the castle the first day, but this time we came back at night for a medieval festival. We were ushered into the main hall where we were given stoneware cups of mead, which was delicious. Brenda and I were also offered cubed bread with salt to ward off the evil spirits of the castle. I thought they had said “sauce,” so I took quite a bit— ugh.
The attendants were all dressed in medieval garb and were very festive. They circled the hall and greeted everyone. They were accompanied by beautiful music from a violinist and harpist. They chose a newlywed couple to portray the Earl and his wife and they sat at the head table. The rest of us sat at the extremely long table with benches.
We were first served a thick soup in earthenware bowls without spoons— only bread to soak it up with. It was very good. Next we had pork and a huge platter of vegetables. This time we had a dagger. Finally a raspberry dessert of some kind, almost like a pudding (also mead).
The meal was delicious and the performance of songs by the musicians was excellent. At the end of a perfect night we were ushered out of the castle by a piper below.
It seemed like a dream, and a beautiful memory of our last night in the Emerald Isle.
Tomorrow we would be leaving for home, so we went back to the hotel and packed our things. What memories we had.
I hope, by writing this journal, to share a few of our precious moments with you, family and friends.
Day 10: September 22, 2007 Saturday
We got up early so we would arrive at the airport in time to clear customs, check in and return the rented car. After clearance we had time to kill, so we browsed through numerous shops. I got a few more gifts and souvenirs. I was loaded down by the time I joined patient and understanding world traveler Brenda. She goes on so many flights with the military, I don’t think she ever unpacks.
When we finally boarded the plane and got settled, I felt a hand on my shoulder. A flight attendant said “Mrs. Horton? Will you come with me, please?”
I was smuggling dirt and rocks for my mother’s grave, plus that incredible flower plant that we found at Blarney Castle. Oh well, it’s really not a plant till you get it rooted— is it?
When I disembarked the plane they had a bag that they thought might have been my lost suitcase. It was not— sorry to say. At least I wasn’t arrested.
We had an extremely long flight, but Brenda and I were served a drink with our meals. We were on-board the plane for about 13 hours. When we got to the states and landed in Atlanta the honeymoon was over. The personnel there were almost rude— no personal graciousness that we found in Ireland. They almost would have used cattle prongs to move us along. Our country sure could use some tips from other countries. What is that motto on the Statue of Liberty?
Never mind the immigrants— this is the treatment they give their own. We boarded the flight out of Atlanta and landed in Syracuse late at night. Darlene met us at the airport and drove us home. She stayed and chatted a while, but Brenda was beat and headed for home.
Brenda took hundreds of the most fabulous pictures. When she gets them all finished I will get a set and share them later with you.
Bunratty Castle
There is an extensive array of indigenous buildings on its grounds which represent the social strata of Medieval life from the poorest one-room cottage to Bunratty House. The name Bunratty, Bun Raite in Irish, means the 'bottom' or 'end' of the Ratty river. This river, alongside the castle, flows into the nearby Shannon estuary.
The Burren
This pavement is crisscrossed by cracks known as grykes and underneath the pavement there are huge caves and rivers that suddenly flood when it rains. It contains dozens of megalithic tombs and celtic crosses and a ruined Cistercian Abbey from the 12th century, Corcomroe.
Cliffs of Moher
The Cliffs of Moher are home to one of the major colonies of cliff nesting seabirds in Ireland. The area was designated as a Refuge for Fauna in 1988.
O'Brien's Tower stands proudly on a headland of the majestic Cliffs. From the Cliffs one can see the Aran Islands, Galway Bay, as well as The Twelve Pins, the Maum Turk Mountains in Connemara and Loop Head to the South.
Blarney Castle
Blarney Castle, as viewed by the visitor today, is the third to have been erected on this site. The first building in the tenth century was a wooden structure. Around 1210 A.D. this was replaced by a stone structure which had the entrance some twenty feet above the ground on the north face. This building was demolished for foundations. In 1446 the third castle was built by Dermot McCarthy, King of Munster of which the keep still remains standing.
Irish Roads
Bruree: The Place of Kings
The Kilmainham Jail
Eamon de Valera
1910 Marriage photo- Eamon and wife Sinéad Bean de Valera .
1916 Eamon's original soldier photograph.
An altered copy of the above photo.
1916 Eamon captured by the British after the Easter Uprising in Ireland.
Seven months after escaping British prison where he was held for his involvment in the 1916 Easter Uprising, Eamon de Valera makes US headlines for visiting Seattle November 11, 1919.
January 1 1920, artist Sean O'Sullivan contemplates his portrait of Eamon.
1922 picture portrait of Eamon de Valera.
April 1927, Eamon de Valera with his mother, Catherine Coll.
January 1941 inspecting troops on O'Connell Street, Dublin on the 25 anniverssary of the 1916 Easter Uprising.
Eamon circa 1950.
1950 state function attended with wife Sinead.
1964- Eamon with U.S. President Lyndon Johnson.
14 October 1882 - 29 August 1975